The Bloody Mary draws the highest hate share of any cocktail YouGov tested (10% among people who drink cocktails at all, more than double the figure for most drinks on the list) while still being liked or loved by 41%. That is because it is barely a cocktail in the usual sense. Alongside vodka and tomato juice it typically carries Worcestershire sauce, hot sauces, garlic, herbs, horseradish, celery, olives, pickled vegetables, salt, black pepper, citrus and celery salt. It is savoury, thick and cold, and it is drunk at a time of day when nothing else savoury is being drunk. Its place at brunch comes from its reputation as a restorative: a heavy vegetable base to settle the stomach, salt to replace electrolytes, alcohol to dull the aches. Some restaurants push the food logic further, serving them with ribs, sliders, shrimp, kebabs or sandwich wedges skewered into the glass. Judged as breakfast rather than as a cocktail the verdict is far harsher: 58% of Americans dislike or hate the idea of drinking one with breakfast, against 19% who like it.